tricky bits: neat patch pocket corners

in the last post i mentioned i figured out a neat way to finish the upper corners of the front patch pockets. i was using the grainline archer pattern, but this will work for every pocket which seam allowances on the upper edge are folded under twice and then topstitched in place. using a different pattern? just go ahead and change your pocket piece so the raw edge on top can be folded under. my method  is not very different from the original construction method that you find on the grainline studio blog. it’s just a tiny difference in folding under the edges and you can’t see any fraying edges when you look inside your pocket.

here you can see how the seam allowances should fold under with your pocket, no matter if you’re using it with the archer or a different pattern. here, the visible crease is the future top edge of the pocket.pocket-1

start by pressing the seam allowances (SA) and fold edges on your pocket. that makes it easer to line everything up later on.  i pressed the sides of the pocket, at a 1/4″ (6mm) SA, that’s what the pattern calls for and i think it’s the perfect SA for patch pockets. to continue, unfold the 1/4″ SA on the top of the pocket and fold under along the first crease (notch).pocket-2

now, again, fold under the SA on the sides. you can give it a press if it doesn’t want to stay put.pocket-3

now fold along the last notch (see crease in the above picture). the fraying edges of the pocket are neatly tucked under now. give it a press and/or fixate it with a pin. personally, i like to use a bit of glue (where my finger is) to keep the corner in place.pocket-4

here’s another close up of that sandwich:pocket-5

pin or baste your pockets in place (in this case, spaced 1 inch from the button bands) and proceed with topstitching the top of the pocket, thereby attaching the pocket to your garment. i like to sew triangles to reinforce the corners.pocket-8

finally, take a look into your pocket: no visible fraying edges that might poke out! neat.pocket-7

if you have questions let me know in the comments! do you have a go-to technique when attaching patch pockets?

  • Alli

    Ooh, what a good tip! I haven’t put any patch pockets on my shirts yet (I’ve only put them on the rear of my shorts, so I don’t really notice stray threads poking out, hehe), but I’ll remember this for when I do. Thanks for the tip! :)

    • http://www.cutikula.com/ christiane

      hey alli, so glad you find it useful!